Mosel Riesling 2016 – Fruity elegance

Bernkasteler vineyards (at the upper edge from the village from right to left: Doctor, Graben and Lay) © Pixabay

Maximilian Ferger‘s passion for wine becomes clear if listening to him, the enologist and manager of the renowned winery Wwe. H. Thanisch – Erben Mueller-Burggraef, when he is speaking about his work in the vineyards and in wine cellar.
Talking with him about Riesling and Pinot Noir on the phone, I had the impression that he speaks of the vines as his children. Just as you give children the best you can, in any case, he wants the best for his vines. In doing so, he pursues an ecologically oriented, sustainable path, which also includes the renunciation of herbicides and botryzides – a path that will soon be completed with the ecological certification.

Fertilization of the soil is sporadic, often only with pomace from the last harvest, because the soil is to feed the plant, but should not be too nutrient-rich, so that the growth of the plant is not overshooting.
The vines grow on weathered slate soils in steep and steepest locations of the winery, such as the known locations Bernkasteler Doctor, Bernkasteler Lay, Graacher Himmelreich or Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr. Excellent locations, whose terroir has a lasting effect on the wines.

Stainless steel cellar © Winery Wwe. Thanisch – Erben Mueller-Burggraef

Maximilian Ferger describes the harvest of the Riesling grapes and the processing: first selection in the vineyard, second on a wooden table in the winery, harvesting in small boxes, then transfer into 800l butts, first soft tamping of the grapes in the vineyard until little juice comes, 2 – 8 h maceration time , pressing of whole berries, no rapid sulfurization after pressing, spontaneous fermentation with a more oxidative than reductive-oriented aging in stainless steel or in large wooden barrels. His objective are complex, well structured wines with attractive, but not too high acidity.

After his dedicated, vivid description, I am looking forward to taste some sweet wines of the winery, acccording to my desire, all from the same vintage. A few days later, the young wines of the vintage 2016 will arrive: Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spaetlese and Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese (prices).

2016 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett
Subtle slate notes on the nose, as well as white peach and green apple, good complexity. Very juicy in the mouth, fresh with elegant fruit, apple, peach, almond and tropical fruits in the background, a hint of tannin, mineral, fresh acidity, very well balanced, long-lasting fruity with delicate herbal spiciness, excellent wine.

2016 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spaetlese
Slightly smoky notes on the nose, tangerine, apricot, very harmonious, concentrated, juicy and creamy on the palate, tangerine, ripe redcurrant and some melon, delicate spice, round but fairly prominent acidity, very well balanced, good citrus and spicy finish, very good finish, good wine.

2016 Bernkasteler Lay Auslese
At first a very subtle fragrance, with light smoky notes, tropical and yellow fruits over time. Concentrated on the palate, elegant, extremely juicy, with an animating acidity, delicate tannins with a hint of citrus, a long finish of mineral notes, fruit and the contrast of sweetness and acidity, excellent wine.

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