Riesling plays a very important role in German sweet wine. For me, Riesling Auslese wines from the Mosel region are definitely among the best. This time, we tasted the Riesling Auslese Pündericher Marienburg Fahrlay 2017 from the Clemens Busch winery. The Busch winery in Pünderich on the Mosel, represented by Rita and Clemens Busch and their son Johannes, cultivates around 20 hectares of vineyards. Most of these belong to the Grand Cru Marienburg, with a smaller portion belonging to the neighbouring Premier Cru Nonnengarten. Riesling is the dominant variety, accounting for 99% of the vineyard.
The winery has been organically farmed since 1984 and biodynamically since 2015. This is evident in the vineyard through greened tramlines, the use of natural nitrogen for fertilisation and plant-strengthening measures. In the cellar, this is evident in the processing of the grapes, whether it be low pressing pressure, maceration time, spontaneous fermentation, clarification by sedimentation or the absence of any fining agents. Fermentation and subsequent ageing usually take place in traditional Fuder barrels, and sometimes in stainless steel. Clemens Busch describes the winery’s philosophy in an interview with the VDP as follows: “We want Riesling from fully ripe grapes, spontaneously fermented with long yeast contact.”
The Marienburg vineyard is cultivated by the winery in parcels. The parcel designation can be found on the label after the vineyard name Marienburg. The parcel names represent not only the different slate soils (blue, grey and red) but also the respective special microclimates, both of which can be tasted in the wines. Only in the very stony Fahrlay parcel does blue slate predominate.
2017 Riesling Auslese Pündericher Marienburg Fahrlay, Clemens Busch (Tasted wines)
Medium golden yellow. Subtly aromatic, diverse nose with lots of pear, apricot, orange zest and ripe pear on the palate, very round, mouth-filling, accentuated by delicate tannins, long-lasting fruity acidity balancing the dense sweetness and a very nice, long finish. Excellent wine.